Discovering Geneva – Travelling in Midlife with Your Teenage Travel Buddy
Geneva is a city that offers the perfect blend of history, stunning scenery, and is easy to navigate, whether on foot or by public transport, making it an ideal destination for a short break. With its charming old town, breathtaking lakeside views, fascinating museums, and vibrant districts, it is a place to be explored and enjoyed. Whether you visit for a weekend getaway or a longer stay, it’s a place that invites you to slow down, savour the details, and enjoy its natural beauty. Despite its reputation as an expensive city, there are countless ways to experience its magic without breaking the bank—especially if you know where to go.
Situated at the foot of the crystal-clear waters of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman in French), Geneva sits on the Swiss-French border. While French is the predominant language, English is also widely spoken. Geneva is known for being a financial hub and home to the UN. Beyond its polished exterior, the city is filled with culture, adventure, and charm, waiting to be uncovered. It’s a place where cobbled streets lead to hidden cafés and restaurants, modern art galleries sit alongside historic landmarks, boutique designer shops sit alongside high street stores and the lake provides a stunning backdrop to every moment. If travelling within Europe, it is just a short flight or train ride away and offers women in midlife a safe and relaxing travel destination.
As my daughter studies in Geneva, I am lucky to visit regularly, navigating the city alone with ease thanks to its excellent public transport system. However, a trip with a dear friend last year held special significance.
Both of us had recently lost our mothers, and with our children now forging their own paths, we found ourselves at a stage of life where we could take time for ourselves again. The last time we had travelled together, we were 19, carefree, and eager for adventure. Our holidays then were filled with beach bars, late-night dancing, and sightseeing squeezed in between sunbathing sessions. Now in our 50s, we weren’t looking to recreate those exact experiences, but we were curious to see if we could still find the same joy, connection, and laughter in a cool early spring weekend in Geneva.
That laughter started before we even booked our flights—navigating online booking systems and the endless options and questions, coordinating luggage, and debating the true merits of speedy boarding (particularly if it meant we could have an extra drink in the bar or more importantly, the benefits of one more toilet stop before boarding the plane) had us in fits of giggles. Gone were the days of walking into a travel agency, picking the best package deal, and simply turning up at the airport with our suitcases. Now, there were not just baggage weight restrictions, but baggage package options, seat selections, travel apps to contend with and more dreaded passwords to remember!
So to simplify things, we decided that the easiest and cheapest option would be to share a piece of hold luggage, each bringing a capsule wardrobe and a few versatile pieces we could mix and match. It was a small but symbolic decision (and actually more sustainable)—travelling light, embracing ease, and proving to ourselves that midlife travel need not be complicated. The excitement of planning an adventure together remained the same, and that familiar thrill of stepping onto a plane with a dear friend reminded us why we had loved to travel together in the first place.
As I have mentioned, one of the great things about Geneva is how easy it is to get around. If you stay in an approved hotel, public transport—tram, train, bus, and even the charming yellow shuttle ferries known as Mouettes—is included in your stay. The journey from the airport to the city centre is quick and stress-free, making your arrival seamless.
Accommodation options vary from five-star luxury hotels to budget-friendly stays and charming Airbnbs, all well connected by public transport and within easy reach of the lake and historic areas. If you want to be in the heart of it all, staying near Rue du Rhône or the Old Town will put you close to key sights but most hotels near the lake offer easy access to the City.
After settling into our hotel, we wasted no time heading out to explore Geneva’s lakeside promenade—a picturesque stretch that perfectly blends the city’s elegance with nature’s beauty. Our first stop was the Jardin Anglais, home to the world-famous Flower Clock, a wonderful display of Swiss craftsmanship and botanical artistry. It’s not just decorative—true to Geneva’s watchmaking legacy, it tells the exact time with Swiss precision.
From here, the Mouettes—the small yellow public ferries—glided across the lake, offering a scenic way to travel between the city’s two sides. The ride is included with the free public transport card, provided by your hotel, making it a great way to soak in the stunning waterfront views without spending extra.
No matter where you are along the promenade, you can’t miss Jet d’Eau, Geneva’s iconic 140-meter-high fountain. Originally part of a hydraulic plant, it has since become the city’s most recognisable landmark. It only shuts down in poor weather but is often beautifully illuminated in the evenings, sometimes in colours to mark special events.
If you're visiting in summer, you’ll find beach areas along the shore, where locals and visitors alike swim in the pristine, crystal-clear lake. In December, the area transforms with Geneva’s Christmas Market, lining the promenade with festive stalls, and local delicacies.
Geneva’s lake isn’t just for sightseeing—it’s also the perfect launch point for a boat cruise. Short harbour tours offer fantastic views of Mont Blanc on a clear day, while longer trips take you across the lake to charming Swiss and French towns, such as Yvoire, a beautiful medieval village known for its cobbled streets and floral displays.
After freshening up, we headed to MET Rooftop Lounge at the Hotel Metropole for a pre-dinner cocktail. If you're looking for a rooftop bar with panoramic lake views, this is a great option. Sipping a cocktail with a view of the lake and snow-capped mountains behind was pretty special.
With hunger setting in, we set off to discover Geneva’s diverse dining scene. The city boasts a vast selection of international cuisine, from Michelin-starred restaurants to cozy neighbourhood bistros. Dining in Geneva can be expensive, but the quality is excellent. A coffee costs around CHF 4-8 Swiss Francs (£3.50 - £7.00), while a main course in a standard restaurant ranges from CHF 25-30 Swiss Francs (£22 - £26.40).
One evening we opted for a Geneva institution: Le Relais de L’Entrecôte. There’s no main menu here (just a dessert menu)—a simple salad starter, followed by a delicious steak-frites, served in two rounds, ensuring you never leave hungry. It’s a popular spot, so expect to queue, but the lively Parisian brasserie atmosphere makes it all part of the experience. It is a little pricey at CHF 46 Swiss Francs, but worth the experience.
The next morning, we took a short walk to Geneva’s Old Town (Vieille Ville), a charming district of winding cobbled streets, hidden courtyards, and medieval architecture. St. Peter’s Cathedral, a highlight of the Old Town, offers sweeping city views from its tower, while its small side chapel, with beautifully preserved frescoes, is certainly not to be missed.
For breakfast or brunch, Geneva’s coffee culture is thriving. Pages & Sips is a must-visit—a charming English bookstore and cafe is perfect for book lovers. Across the street, its French counterpart offers a Parisian-inspired ambiance.
In the heart of the Old Town, you will find the pretty Place du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva’s oldest square. Once a Roman marketplace, it’s now a lively hub filled with quaint cafés, creperies, and boutique shops. The square’s 18th-century fountain, often decorated with fresh flowers, makes the square a picture-perfect spot to while away an hour or so.
Just a short stroll away, we found the world’s longest wooden bench—the Marronnier de la Treille, perched along the city walls near the Hotel de Ville. From here, the views over Geneva and the mountains beyond were stunning.
The National History of Art Museum is a short walk from the Place due Bourg-de-Four and is worth visiting, we enjoyed a relaxing hour browsing it’s spectacular halls and exhibits.
Leaving the Old Town, we wandered into Parc des Bastions, a beautiful tree-lined park home to the impressive Reformation Wall. This peaceful green space often hosts art exhibitions, open-air chess games, and seasonal events, making it a great spot to relax. The historic Kiosque des Bastions, a glass-domed restaurant at the park’s edge, pays homage to its past as a botanical garden—an ideal place for a leisurely coffee.
Through the wrought-iron gates, we entered Place de Neuve, Geneva’s cultural heart. Here, you’ll find the city’s Opera House, Art Galleries, and the Conservatoire de Musique, all housed in stunning, historic buildings.
If shopping is on your agenda, it’s an easy walk back or take a tram back into the city, You can browse the designer shops along the Rue du Rhône, Geneva’s premier shopping street lined with luxury boutiques and Swiss watchmakers.
We headed to Carouge, a charming district with Italian-style architecture, and home to artisan galleries, vintage shops, and lively markets. It was a short tram ride away, and is a local favourite for a more relaxed, bohemian vibe. There is a small produce market on a Saturday in the square.
In Switzerland, Sundays are a day of rest, meaning many shops and restaurants close. However, Geneva doesn’t shut down completely—it just slows to a more relaxed rhythm. Locals spend the day strolling by the lake, exploring parks, or visiting local markets.
It is an opportunity to live like a local, explore the large Sunday market at Plain Palais or if you want to explore further, the area known as the Palais des Nations, is home to the UN and the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum or visit the Botanical Gardens with its stunning views of the lake.
In the summer or indeed winter months, the area towards the lighthouse is known as the Bain de Paquis, here there are areas where you can swim in the crystal clear lake and there are steam rooms available. It isn’t fancy but is really atmospheric, especially in the evening, where you can enjoy a traditional fondue, it is a particular favourite destination for locals. The Bain de Paquis has wonderful views of the Jet D’Eau and you can even marvel at the impressive Mount Blanc in the distance.
During our stay it would have been rude not to try some of the incredible Swiss chocolates and patisseries. The city is packed with artisan chocolatiers, these were some of the ones we tried but we hardly scratched the surface.
La Bonbonnière – They also offer chocolate workshops & tastings, which are bookable in advance
Favarger – One of the oldest Swiss chocolate houses, also hosts tasting sessions
Martel Chocolatier – A sustainable chocolate & patisserie brand with charming tea rooms. There are several Martel outlets across Geneva, including a lovely one near the square in Carouge.
Although, we ran out of time during our visit, a number of Geneva’s five-star hotels offer afternoon tea with lake views. The Beau-Rivage Hotel even serves Alpine dining in cable cars on its winter terrace.
If the weather isn’t on your side, Geneva’s museums provide fascinating alternatives. One highlight is the International Museum of the Red Cross and Red Crescent, near the Palais des Nations—a moving yet insightful experience.
For something creative, Noon Ceramics offers ceramic painting workshops, which are fun and relaxing, but note that glazed pieces take three weeks to collect—not ideal for short stays, but you can take your unglazed piece home.
Geneva’s cinemas are small and intimate, screening both blockbusters and French indie films, making for a cosy retreat on a rainy day.
We chose to spend this visit, relaxing and enjoying each other’s company, whilst savouring the delights of Geneva. We did not feel the need to venture further afield on this occasion but the delights of nearby Annecy, Yvoire, Montreaux and indeed the ski resorts of the French Alps are all accessible in a day trip - but we planned to return to visit these together at another time.
Apart from all the wonderful places to discover, one of the unexpected joys of our trip was the slow, early mornings spent chatting over coffee. While my friend embraced her early-rising, gym-loving self, I preferred a gentler start. She would fetch us both a coffee, and we’d talk, reminiscing about past travels, sharing memories of our mothers, and reflecting on the journey life had taken us on. In those quiet moments, we realised how much we had changed yet remained the same—still the 19-year-olds who loved to travel together, but now with decades of experiences to share.
More than just catching up, we checked in with each other in ways that only true friendship allows. Not the usual, "How are you?" followed by an automatic, "Fine, thanks," but the real conversations—the kind where you look into someone’s eyes and know when they’re truly okay and when they’re just saying they are. We spoke about the transitions we were navigating, the sense of loss and renewal that midlife brings, and the unexpected joys of reclaiming a little piece of ourselves.
As our trip came to an end and we headed back to the airport, a simple 20 minute bus ride, we reflected on how much we had done in just a few days—sipping wine in Carouge, people-watching from café terraces in the Old Town, indulging in too many chocolates and pastries, exploring museums, and soaking in Geneva’s stunning scenery. Most importantly, we reconnected in a way that only travel allows, finding both laughter, comfort and familiarity in each other’s company.
When repacking our shared suitcase, it struck me how this simple act mirrored the essence of the trip. We had travelled light, embraced simplicity and public transport, and shared experiences in a way that made everything feel effortless. It was a reminder that travel in midlife doesn’t have to be complicated—sometimes, the best adventures come from stripping things back and embracing what truly matters.
On our flight home we agreed this wasn’t just a one-off trip; it was the start of a new chapter. Travel in midlife isn’t about reliving our younger adventures, but about creating new ones with the same spirit of curiosity and joy. Geneva provided the perfect setting to rekindle our love for travel as friends and remind us that the world is still ours to explore.
Who did you travel with in your younger years? Maybe it’s time to embark on a new adventure together. Geneva might just be the perfect place to start.
I hope this insight, gave you some ideas of places to visit and places to go but if you would like a little help with your planning, then look out for my Genena Travel Companion, which is coming soon and provides you with a ‘How To’ guide to discovering Geneva for yourself, with suggested places to stay and eat, a simple itinerary, useful recommendations and tips to make your trip as relaxing and as easy for you as possible.
If you have any questions in the interim, please do not hesitate to contact me on info@eight8.co.uk and I will be more than happy to help you if I can.
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